After doing a lot of research and playing with a few different devices, I decided to make my own and create 3D stl files for the enclosure taking a lot of work done out there but adding some fixes that best meet my needs and make the device better.
First let me say that I would not be able to create these things without the talented work done on the modeling by those much better than I. I can cut and paste and manipulate 3D designs with very simple tools, I have not mastered any of the real software to do this professionally. So with that in mind, if I were to sell these gadgets, you would be paying for the assembly work, not the design as I just hacked around with open source designs to make them just a tad bit more in line for what I needed.
One thing to consider is the size of the device, screen, battery, board inside and how it all works together and keep it small. Some manufactures have gone to a custom board with limited firmware to do this and they are great for out of the box users. Myself, I like to tinker with stuff till I break it or melt it and have to start over. Its the most expensive learning process, but it is fun.
The Hardware:
- RAK 19007 Meshtastic Starter kit with RAK 4361 board.
- RAK GPS Module with Antenna
- RAK Temp Sensor Module
- SMA Antenna connector with 6 inch cable
- 2000mah or 3000mah 3.7V LI battery (Check dimensions before buying.)
- Small click button (Solder type for user button)
- 1.3inch White Screen (verify pins before assembly, Ground and VCC are switched a lot with different manufactures.)
- Hex bolts and nuts (M3 20mm x4 Bolts, 4 M3 Nuts, 3 black screws from RAK)
Mods:
I decided if I was going to build and sell these on Etsy, I needed them to be a bit more professional than my hack job at soldering. Trust me I suck at it. So I found a connector that I can retro fit to the screen that has a nice cable that I can solder to the 19007 and make it very clean. Like it was made for it. This was dumb luck by the way.
Add GPS
Add Temp Sensor
Add Paracord and Crimp
Finally I update to the latest and Set LORA to US before finalizing the burn in.
WARNING – ALWAYS CONNECT ANTENNAS FIRST BEFORE POWERING ON THE DEVICE. YOU WILL DESTROY THE RADIO IF YOU FOR GET THIS!
- 3D Printed Case:
- I am lucky enough to have some Bambu Labs X1 and A1 printers. So my results may be better or worse than yours. I recommend printing some test to make sure everything fits, I have a box of scrap from my testing screens and wires.
- Front Case – This panel has a larger cutout and support structure than the .93″ screen that was used in the stl file I found on printables. I enlarged this, added a new bevel to protect the screen and made it so I could hot glue the screen in place rather than attempt tiny screws.
- Middle Mount – This is where the RAK 19007 and all its boards mount to with screws, and the user button is added and soldered to some wires. This is the most important part of the build. Its the base no matter how you mod the front or back.
- Back Cover – You can print this at different heights depending on what battery you go with. For my projects I used the 12MM back so I could fit in a makerfocus 3000mah Li battery perfectly. I did need to swap neg and positive on the battery connector to match the RAK board. Make sure you get this right or you may create a desk art piece. 🙁
- Button Cover – There are two button / covers. One you glue into place after testing on the side of the base plate. This covers the user button. The second is more like extending the reset button at the bottom of the case so you can click it when needed.
Some things to consider when printing. You should use supports to keep your print from coming out crappy. You may need a raft depending if you are using PLA, PETG, etc. You know your printer, expect everything to go wrong till you get it dialed in.
Soon we will be putting some up on Etsy to sell, you are paying for the 3D print, and assembly.
Options:
Screen size .93″ or 1.3″ right now. I am working on some custom 1.5″ screen enclosures once I compile to driver for meshtastic. If we can get drivers in the real releases, it should support these bigger screens out of the box.
Battery size options from 2000mah to 3000mah for the hand held devices. I have tested up to 10000mah packs on the RAK hardware without issues. These smaller batteries range for $12.00 to $15.00.
Choice of PLA or PETG. PETG is better for hard usage outdoors but does have some print drawbacks. PLA is good for all around and what I print proto types in. Also I recommend MATTE filament for that rugged look. The standard filament can be pretty shinny. Case print is $20 to $25.00 depending on material.
GPS or NO-GPS – This option for the RAK GPS is about $27.00 to the build cost.
TEMP / Env sensor – This is about $5.00 to the build cost.
Screens can range from $10.00 to $25.00 depending on color and manufacture. I have a few I like that are on the lower end of the price scale. Will be looking at paper white displays too just incase someone asks.
Your own logo. If you want a custom logo or words on the case, let me know. I charge a little extra to put them on and send you renderings before printing the case because it gets expensive throwing out prints that done look good.
RAK 19007 stater kit is about $33.00 and will be the base I use unless Lilygo or something else is requested.
| Case + Starter Board | $53.00 |
| 3000mah LI Battery | $15.00 |
| RAK GPS | $27.00 |
| Push User Button | $2.50 |
| Env Sensor | $5.00 |
| Screen (1.3″) | $14.00 |
| Fresh Meshtastic Load | $0 |
| Antenna (915 mhz) with SMA Connector | $7.00 |
| Total Premium Build | $123.50 + shipping |
| Discount – Figured in shop check out! |